DIY Salt and Pepper Shaker Set

 DIY Salt and Pepper Shakers From Miniature Liquor Bottles

Hey guys if you have ever wanted to diy a unique set of salt and pepper shakers? These are adorable…and can make great handmade gifts too! If you’re a collector of little glass bottles this is the perfect way to repurpose them with panache!

A couple of years ago I made a set of salt and pepper shakers using a couple of small 2 oz Jack Daniels whiskey bottles and gifted them to my husband’s uncle for Christmas. He loved them! Now that’s a really good man cave gift idea, if you’re thinking about it.

I used what they call the “sleeping pill” size which is like 4 oz or something. If you want to make your own salt and pepper shakers this way, those cute little liquor bottles served on airplanes would work well…They are usually made of plastic; I used a bunch of them to make this cool party light set.

I prefer glass and for that you have to get those “sleeping pill” sizes, as the miniature airplane or mini-bar ones are usually plastic.

I’m demo-ing using a pair of Jaeger bottles for this salt and pepper set.

Materials List

2 small matching bottles

Cordless drill and very small bits

Toothpicks

Optional: Mod Podge

Disclaimer: You don’t actually have to go to a liquor store; you can probably find small liquor bottles at your nearest thrift or antique store. A lot of people treat these as “vintage collectibles” so they should be easy to find.

I don’t want to encourage anyone to drink to do this craft hehehe. Oh yeah, little teeny airport and travel size bottles such as those that hold shampoo or mouthwash, would also work great!

Let’s Do This: How To DIY These Cute Salt and Pepper Shakers!

1. Step one….Wash out your empty bottles. Whether or not you want to keep the labels on is up to you; I wanted to preserve mine so I applied a coat of Mod Podge to both the front and back labels of my Jaeger bottles. If you want to remove them this post has some good advice for getting them off easily!

2. Unscrew the caps and check for one of those little protective papery liners. You can easily pry them out using a flat head screwdriver or nail file. As an optional tip, if you want to give these as gifts keep the liners (if you got them out cleanly) and after you fill up the shakers you can replace them to keep the salt and pepper from leaking out.

3. You’re going to probably need a good workstation setup. I’m using these blocks of wood here…This is a good idea if you don’t have one of those “workhorses” to keep your objects from moving around.

Using the tiniest drill bit you have on hand, make about 5-6 little holes in the middle of each bottle cap. I would use the 1.98 mm or 1.58 mm as they are the smallest in my collection.

4. Using a toothpick, run it through the little holes to give them a little definition. If the caps are plastic there may be some plastic dust pieces coming out…you will want to blow them off. (Canned air works well)

If your caps are metal (like mine) there isn’t much dust – but on the other side of the caps the holes you just made may be a little sharp and raw looking.

Turn them over and use something like an emery board to file them down.

5. Wash your bottles out again (with the caps on) so you won’t have any remaining plastic dust or metal pieces left behind that could get into the actual salt and pepper. Let them dry before filling them.

Planning to give these as gifts? You can fill them with salt and pepper to be extra nice ?? You may want to put the paper insert back under the caps so the ingredients won’t spill out, or if you lost the inserts, a piece of Saran wrap will work like a charm.

I eventually gifted the Jaeger shakers to my niece for Christmas 2018 – she thought they were cool -this is the set I made to keep for myself ?? Pretty much followed the same steps above , except I only put about three holes in the lids.

Hey that was fun wasn’t it? If you’ve got a bigger bottle collection, make several sets like this and give them as gifts! And keep one for yourself like I did – this is a great idea to add a little flair to your barware, kitchen and dining accessory collection!

Maybe Just One More Fluid Painting (A String Pull)

 Hi all, no surprise that before the paint is dry on my other work, woukn't you know I'd be thinking about producing another, this time I'm doing a very unique and innovative technique that only looks hard - the "string pull" method.

This si a great technique to try if you are looking to do a paint pouor that uses less paint. You know you can runthrough a lot of apint while doing this and it's messy as all get out. But this approach is totally different. This is also a good technique to try if you are intrigued by work with a lot fo negative space in it. 

I decided to try this because after I hung up my work from the last session, I felt like it needed a little something more, two little 8 x 10's needed a third to get the "right" loook. I'm going to make the color scheme the same too. so all three will look very much in sync together. Which means I am going to mix up the same colors .

So to get started, you need a canvas, the painting medium, 4-5 colrors, water, and of course, some string.

After you have mixed your colors, medium and water  (refer back to here to get the whole methodology of mixing)

Apply a primer base coat to your canvas. Now in videos I've seen most people do a basic white or black. I am not a fan of stark black or white backgrounds. Nothing wrong with that, you do what you liek best, but I'm goind to make it more of a light blue. So I'm mixing in a tiny amount with my white base coat.

Now take out some wax paper and bab out a little bit of each color in a row, kind of line them up side by side, it will form a pattern. You can also repeat the alternating color pattern if you like and you want your design to be more colorful.

Dip  your string into the paint, try to get it mixed into all of those colors as much as you can. (Wearing gloves might be a good idea for this)

Arrange your string on the canvas, try to center it if you can and also try to form a pattern kind of loopy looking, like I'm goind.

Now slowly, very slowly, pull the string from the bottom. You will see the way the pattern develops and hwo it takes on a floral shape.Repeat this string on canvas and gentle pull motion for as many "flowers" as you like  Wal-la!

I've also seen people do this with a ball chain as well. I thought about trying that but I don't have any that aren't part of a necklace I wear already. We'll see! What did you think of this?This is the string pull tehnique! Looks hard but it's not!

DIY Light Up Sign With Christmas Lights

 Learn how to make an AWESOME lighted sign with Christmas lights and delight your friends and guests when they come to visit! Now if you are like me and put off by the technical aspects of lighting such as wiring, positive to negative blah,blah,blah, well you are going to LOVE this approach!

Other than what I needed to know to assemble the wiring from the kit I needed for my mason jar lamp, I don’t mess around with something that has the power to well, shock you…However this project will, in a good way!

Long story short, I used to have one of those light-up vintage clocks with a soda ad company name on it, but unfortunately the light burned out and I had no idea how to replace it, since it called for a fluorescent tube (?). Somehow I rigged it up with a set of midget sized Christmas lights and voila….Wow, what a fix that was!

Then I decided to create a sign of my own using this same technique. I loved it, and I think you will, too!

Materials Needed

It took me about three days tops to make this sign. First things first, the lights. Seasonal timing affects their availability; they tend to be plentiful on shelves during the fall months and nonexistent the rest of the year. They also should be midget-sized, clear, and between 15 and 25 lights on the string will give the best effect.

Sometimes  I’ve gotten the battery-operated type, but they’re usually less reliable.

Other items include: A small box of your choosing (a cardboard shoebox would work great!) A sheet of clear plastic or cellophane, x-acto knife, paint and glue.. Optional -some markers would be helpful.

Making the Design For Your Light-Up Sign

First…decide on your design – will it be a single word, or a simple image? Here is my box from the start, I decided on a homemade “exit” sign for fun, just like the kind you see in public venues.

Tip: Choose a simple word design like this -“Love” and “Joy” would qualify here; or if you happen to have a short nickname or name period, would be a great idea for your design.

Don’t think you have to use a word, you can come up with something like a star, heart, moon, your first initial, family surname initial, etc. Just make the design simple and sweet so it will be easier to handle when cutting early on.

Want a clever hack to craft a word? Check these signs out below I found on Instructables; the talented person who made these used a program like Word to create the design, chose a font and blew up the size real big .Image credit: Creativeman

I LOVE these signs…they’re AWESOME…too bad I didn’t find this method until AFTER I made my own sign? I think I am going to make another one, though, in the future with this approach when I get a chance!

Get your ruler and use it to mark where the word/design needs to be centered before starting them. Use an x-acto knife to cut out the letters.

It may look a little crude here, but I was willing to allow for marker error since I planned to paint it. I spray painted the box with black spray paint. Your box may have writing on it most likely, so after cutting your design would be a good time to paint it.

Now take your sheet of cellophane and place it over the design’s outline, like this. Apply a bead of glue around the perimeter of the sheet so it won’t seep out around the design cutout; press in place.

making a lighted sign

I carefully glued down a green tissue paper sheet (Also letting these two sit for awhile so they would not buckle). If you have access to colored cellophane,you can use that in place of colored tissue paper. I just kinda had to make do at the moment ??

make light up sign christmas lights

Let the whole thing dry for now, preferably overnight. We’ll get to those lights next!

How To Attach the Lights

So on to the midget light strand! I used a piece of thick foam poster board inside the box to have a place for the lights to be arranged on. I encourage you to do the same , just get some of that type of board and cut it to the width/length of your box. We will need this to secure the string so when the box is sitting upright the lights won’t roll around.

Your string of lights need to be “distributed” in a special way so they will not end up falling into a clump at the bottom.

To do this part I used a drill and made small holes at the corners. I wound the light string in a circle and secured three areas with twist ties. Then I pushed the board piece down. I made sure to carefully spread each light out …when done right, no one will know that’s Christmas lights in there!

Cut a notch on the side of the foam board (there is also a notch at the back of the shoebox too for the cord to thread through)

You know what’s coming…close up the box (the piece of board is pretty taut so it will stay in place on its own) and plug it in.

Time to Test Out Your Light-Up Sign!

Pretty awesome right? And you didn’t have to fool around with unfamiliar tools either. Just a regular old strand of midget lights! It was just as much fun as my party light strand here.

Oh, by the way, check out what this gal did…Very impressive! She pretty much created an exit sign just like mine but with a different approach (sounds easier I have to admit) and it became a nightlight for her son’s room…how cool is that?

(It looks like I may need to get out more and go to some yard sales, lol)

Now you know how to make a gorgeous lighted sign with Christmas lights, get busy and light up your living area now!

Turning 2 Sculptures Into Bookend Set

 Sculpey strikes again! THis time I took 2 figurines I've made from the magic sculpting compound and transofmred them into a set of bookends....

Built upon a base of flat rocks. Which are not easy to find.

Be sure to stick moleskin pads on the bottom so they don't scratch. Enjoy!

A Stud Earring Holder....From a CANVAS

 Make a diy stud earring holder and get those little buggers together! If you’ve got a lot of little bitty post earrings you know as well as I do how frustrating it can be to find just the pair you want when you’re getting ready in the morning.

Or maybe you are just fed up with them and their respective mates getting separated easily?

OR..is your story mostly like mine…you don’t even wear post earrings anymore for whatever reason maybe they’re not hypoallergenic which you need if you’re going to wear them, but your collection is too cute to just throw away..in other words, you want to give them an upcycle makeover.

Well, now we can stop the madness…

We’re going to discuss how to create a very special space for them all and make them easy to find when you want a specific pair and we’re going to do better than that – we’re going to make it pretty too!

DIY Stud Earring Organizer Materials List

Post/stud type earrings present a special challenge….because of their design, what the heck are you supposed to attach them to so they will stay on? Unlike the dangly/wire kind of earring, they can’t stay on a grid or something without falling off (duh!) Well have no fear, because I’m about to spill the beans on  some ideas. Update: I did end up making a holder for my dangly earrings, too!

You just need to find some material that has a tight weave to it….It can be burlap, it can be wire mesh if it’s got teeny tiny openings (like window screen) and a type that doesn’t have too much slack in it so when it is secured down it should be nice and tight.

Canvas or burlap are two materials that definitely fit the bill here. Another material that would work very well, it’s not fabric but it would work well, is some corkboard.Guess what I’m using for mine? (Wait for it…) That’s right….I’m using an actual ARTIST CANVAS!!

Suggested materials for the backdrop that you’ll attach the material to:

A nice, attractive picture frame, it can be one you own or an unfinished pre-formed frame. It can be any size you want, depending on how many earrings you need to get together!

Another cool idea is one of those round embroidery hoops. I’ve never used one but it would work great for this!

How to DIY This Earring Holder

An art canvas – now that’s quite the hack!Yep, that’s right, just like the ones I paint on. Think canvases are just for painting? Think again!

I didn’t have to do any pre-drilling of holes or anything – the earrings just pushed right on through. Canvases are strong, but don’t think they are invincible:)

Feel free to steal this one! A small canvas about 11 by 14 or so is all you need, paint and bling it up to your liking.

The only negative I can see, is that my canvas idea may be a tad prohibitive….I understand as I made this to display my collection (I don’t wear these)…The corkboard and tight mesh may suit your needs better.

Assuming you are wanting to use the materials in the list above,and a frame, here’s how to proceed:

First…paint your frame in the color of your choice, if you’ve got an unfinished one and want to make it look a little nicer. Oh, and I just wanted to share my video of this project right quick (Sorry I know it’s a little shaky)

Lay the mesh materials on the back of the frame of choice to determine where to trim it to shape. ( You may want to mark the perimeter with a pencil )

Use  a sharp trimming tool such as an X-acto knife or a box cutter, to trim around the perimeter of the material.

Get some craft glue and squirt out a ribbon around the edge of the frame on the back…Carefully place your cut material down on  the back of the frame.

Let it set up and cure for a few days before you start attaching your earrings to it.

Hanging Your Finished Holder

Now you’re going to need to attach a wire hanger to the back for easy hanging in whatever location you’ve chosen. Need a little assistance with that part? The first few instructions in this post will help with that. You should be all set!

Now you can enjoy your earring collection at easy reach, or just fun display! Hard to believe I once kept all mine in a jewelry box, but they just become one big messy clump.   As you know anything that is that small has a big capability to end up getting lost!

I don’t mean to toot my own horn but I love my canvas idea if I do say so myself…it just came out of nowhere one day ??  Post earrings, haven;t worn much lately, too pretty to give away, a recipe for – fun!

Well, there you have it, guys, this is the way to make a gorgeous diy stud earring holder for your collection! Hang it in the boudoir, bathroom,

My First Official Paint Pour...

 Today I'll be "Doing a paint pour" Oh you're gonna LOVE this! it's messy, but totally worth it. Now is the time to dig in if you haven't already. I'm titling this post acrylic pour painting for beginners. It's going to be an introduction to one of the hottest art trends going on today.

And yes, I am a little late to the party. Guilty as charged.

And yes, this is embrassing to admit, but I only found out about this technique from a few comments on here and from visiting Pinterst. Yep, that's right! Well, since the pandemic started, I honestly can't say it's been easy to discover new art trends socially as it once was. Hopefully some of you can relate. Anyway, moving on...

Have you ever heard of "pour painting", also known as "painting pours" or "fluid painting"? and wanted to learn all about it, and maybe try your hand at it? Great, me too! Are you intrigued by the look of abstract art and wanting to get in on this hot trend? Check!

I must confess, I am totally lousy at abstract art. I just can't get a handle on it. It is almost as if I am not wired for it at all. After all, I studied under "old school" instructors in which above all else, you almost have to become wedded to your subject matter to paint it accurately. It's easy for me to know what I need to do to complete work in the ultra-reliast style, but if I am working in an abstract style I have no idea. Frustrating. Oh well. The good news is that I think learning fluid painting may be the answer I've been hoping for! I've scoured as many articles and how-to's as I can and even without taking a single class, I think I can do this. But since this will be my first official "pilot" fluid painting, I'm keeping a log on this post bit by bit to show you how things will unfold. Ok, let's begin with the necessary materials!

To do this you will need:

Tools and Materials:

• Painting medium (Floetrol is the most popular)
• Paints
• Silicone oil (but I am experimenting with WD-40 and 3 in one all purpose oil for household use)
• Some disposable cups, 
• something to stir the paint around with (e.g. popsicle sticks)
• A canvas
• Something to prop your canvas up (can be pushpins or more Dixie cups)
• Something to protect your work surface with like newspapaers

First off, one afternoon, my boyfriend and I were shopping at AceHardware  for some supplies for our backyard garden, and the thought toccured to me to check up on a product called "Floetrol" I was kind of bone-headed when I asked the sales associate about it as I couldn't relly say the name correctly until I pulled it up on my phone. Floetrol (also known by the brand name "Flood" is a product used to mix with acrylic paints to improve their consistency. This is the first thing you need - a painting "medium" with which you will miix with your paints so they will flow on the canvas easily to create the intresting patterns. Liquitex has a proprietary brand of their own as well, the main thing is it has to be acetone based  Although you can thin acrylic paint with water, you have to be mindful of how much you add to it as you run the risk of de-pigmenting the vibrant colors. A good painting medium will offset this.

I have also heard that you can assemble your own painting medium using a combo of Mod Podge and water. Sounds just like my recipe here if not identical! If you're starting out on the cheap or you can't get out much and yuou have to use what you have on hand you might consider this. I do want to stress that it may work well, but long term the results may not be archival quality. So it depends on what your goals are.

Anyway, you can buy a product like Floetrol at most home imporvement stores (or online if stock is low). It comes in a quart sized bottle.

I have decided that I am going to use the acetone product that I found in my collection of paints that was made to be used with my enamel (glass ) acrylics. Call me cheap but I don't see why you should spend money on something if you can find what you need in your very own closet or pantry that will do the job you need. Can I get an 'amen"?

The second thing you ned...Silicone oil. This product will help create the "cells" in the final pour apinting. Now I am in a quandary about this, just out of curiosity I checked under the kitchen sink where I keep all my cleaning/household supplies and found a bottle of "3 in 1 multipurpose oil" (made by the same company that also makes WD-40.) I got online ad did some poking around trying to find out if this oil I found would be as effective as silicone oil , it was hard to get good answers, even read reviews on Amazon to see if any customers used 3 in 1 for fluid painting. Uh...no. Refer to my above argument. Sometimes you are just on your own about these things.

The paints...

The good news is you can use any of your acrylic paints you want..the trick will be choosing the right combination of colors so you get the right effect. The wrong color combo, you could end up with a muddy looking owrk of art, or too washed out. I love warm tones with lots of orange so I am going to stick to that. ALso, if you decide to include black in your scheme, do so very very sparingly. A little will go along way. I rarely use black when I paint, period. You can even use metallics or neon colors if you want as long as you choose colors that work together. 

You'll need a handful of disposable cups...one for each color (about 4-5), and some sticks for stirring, like popsicle sticks or coffee stirrers.

A canvas...doesn't matter the type. 

Tip: If you can, start with a small canvas (about 11 x 14 or similar) and a roasting pan (which are usually about that big or a little larger, ) as these are usually about the right size to catch apint drips.

And be sure you protect your workspace as things are about to get messy. You're probably going to spill some paint so put down newspapers or one of those disposable plastic tablecloths.

1. Start by pouring a small amount of the first colro into one of your cups. Add a similar amount of your medium and stir together.

Repeat with the other colors.

Prep your canvas first....Use thumbtacks on the bottom so the canvas will be propped up a little which will minimize runoff.

First off you can pour the paint directly from the cup, or tip the cup over, and follow up with the others

Or you can drip each color down in patterns like I have done here (you may want to alternate the different colors)

, 

Now take the canvas and move it around slightly, let the paint run in all directions, you may want to limit how much you do this but keep moving the canvas around until there are no white spots showing. To-da!  Do you notice any cells forming? This are spots that look especially photogenic with gaps of color that resemble bubbles oof soap.  Sometimes it happesn sometimes it doesn't

 Time to admire your work!

ANd if you have any messy drips left behind (most likely y ou'll have some) take your other canvas and push it face down into the paint drips left over to create ANOTHER piece fo artwork....

Can you paint pour over a paint pour that's messed up?

I'd be lying if I told you every paint project will go right 100% of the time.

And so it is, and was, with me.If you will recall from my previous post, I had just completed my first official paint pour. I was over the moon. Until I opened the door to the closet that I had it carefully placed so it could dry.  What I saw was ...There was no words. Just cue the scratching record sound right about now.

Much to my consternation I saw one of my old paintings had fallen face down on top of my freshly painted fluid painting! How could this have happened??!!?? My work of art was ruined! And what are the odds of something like a painting that was just casually stuck behind it actually falling on a wet painting and ruining it? Man, the art gods must have had it out for me that night.

I probably said a few cuss words and stuff I wouldn't post here....But then I realized, we;re all adults here adn we don't cry over spilled milk or paint. After I peeled off the fofending painting that had spoiled everything, I was ready to trash it out of spite. It was mediocre, anyway.

I got one of my palette knives and proceeded to scrape off the "damaged" area of my new fluid painting.Some residual color had remained on the canvas. 

I remember that I did all my paint mixing ins trategically used containers with lids so I had paint already left over that I could use to redo the damage. Then I- you guessed it...proceeded to re-pour. I knew it would not look just like the original but I did my best. Just as a point of comparison, here is the original work:

And after all is said adn done, here is the re-done piece:

So YES, you can pour paint over a paint pour. If you happen to have my bad luck that day, or if you're unsaitisfied iwth something, or just plain goof on one spot. Here are some things to keep in mind:

Get to it quickly....the drying time is a factor. I also did a small version of this one on an 8 x 10 size canvas and it was already dry in a matter of hours. WHo knows? Of course, I did not touch it. I can tell when paint is wet in some areas by its glossy appearance.

When you scrape paint off the canvas discard the pieces in the trash, don't try to rinse it down the sink.

Redoing a painting that you "goof" on, or you're just disatisfied with, is more cost effective. I've painted over canvasses plenty of times over buying new ones and starting from square one.  Usually I'll just apply a coat of white gesso to it and start over. Of course, you won't need to do that with a paint pour.

If the paint is semi-moist, scrape it off using your palette knife. Best to get to it as quickly as possible to make this easier.

Full Disclaimer: SInce I have only got 2 paint pours under my belt, I can't call myself an expert (yet.) But I can tell youwhat I know about acrylic paint in general from lifelong experience as this subject relates to paint composition.

Acrylic paint tends to contract as it dries, the top layer if it is thicker develops a type of "skin" over the bottom layer due to the presence of polymer binders., also water evaporates naturally as it dries. So if you are going to re-pour a piece of work that has dried, be sure to wait until it has "cured" which can take as long as two weeks.  There's "dry" on a superficial level and then there's "cured" meaning ALL of the layers of paint have adequately dried not just one layer.

Good luck to you and let meknow how it goes!

DIY Ring Holder

 Making this cool ring holder form Sculpey....Whatdaya think??

I always loved that mannequin hand like the kind you see at jewelry shops used to display rings and other jewelry. They are usually made form some kind of hard plastic. If I'd had something like resin I coulda done that, but I use polymer clay instead.

I have made one out of Sculpey Light...trouble is it doesn't have enough weight to it. So I would use Sculpey Original instead. If you like colors you can use those too, but you may not be able to find them in bulk sizes which you'll need , each small brick is 2 oz, and it may take at lest 5 of them to be viable.

So best to get Original (white) and paint it later. 

But it turned out great (I painted it green gold)...And it holds all my rings.

The Dirty Pour Technique

 Doing one of those "paint pours" you've probably heard of....What is the "dirty pour" you may ask?

This is a very popular approach to painting pours that involves mixing all of the colors then pouring them all into the same cup in layers. Due tot he addition of oil, the different color layers will sit on top of each other. 

Be sure you have all of your matorrals before getting started, refer to my list here for some good ideas about substitutes for things that are less expensive.

Now we are going to choose our color palette and start missing our colors. Since I am creating this work specifically to hang in the master bedroom which has lots of cool tones (the walls are a light purple/blue color) I have chosen "cool"" colors like green, blue, and purple. I also thought I would aadd a little metallic balck for good measure. Yes you can add metallic or gold paint too, it will add a nice classy look. 

This post goes into depth into mixing the colors with the apinting medium and oil.Be sure your work space is well protected with newspapers and something plastic to catch the drips

You can see where I have got my notes ready.....

Now we're going to pour all of the colors into one cup but to do this we'll tilt the cup at a angle and pour the colors at such an angle that it will run down the sides and the colors should form a layer without mixing into each other (you definitely do not want that)

Prepare your canvas with thumbtacks on each bottom corner to prop it up and allow the paint to go over the edges. Set it (while still upside down) on top of the cup. Now being careful to hold the cup and the canvas simultaneously, (hold them tightly) and flip them over at the same time.

Remove the cup slowly from the canvas....

and you should have a puddle of color in the middle. Let it flow now, but tilt it in different directions to get the effect you like.

Voila!

Now you have performed the "dirty pour" technique.

DIY Foldout Privacy Screen From Upcycled Canvases

 This DIY folding screen tutorial is exactly what you need if you’re looking for a classy artistic way to separate or create a focal point in your living room, or just use it to hide that pile of stuff you’ve been meaning to go through… hey, we don’t judge ?? ??!

Ever seen one of those boring old white folding office screens and thought “That would be so much better if it were pretty to look at” Well, me too…I will be walking you through with mine; it is made out of ordinary materials and wait til you see what else!

So you too can have a really dope looking piece of decor for your home that is also practical, too. Now you can make one yourself for your home or office!

I used art canvases to put this baby together…yep you heard right, canvases! After all, what better object to work with, since they are already framed and stretched?

(Disclaimer: I am not an experienced carpenter per-se; all this info comes from what I know about canvases – their strength and adaptability overall)

DIY Folding Screen Materials

At least four metal door hinges (six for a four panel screen)

Small metal braces

Screwdriver

Measuring tape

A leveler

Equal amounts of panel frames – two longer and two shorter for each panel

Fabric to be used for the frames – it should have at least 2? of overhang to wrap around and secure to the frames

The length and width of the panels is entirely up to you; just make sure that each panel will have the exact same dimensions!

How Many Panels Do You Need?

When I looked at most folding decorative screens up close, they usually have between three and five panels, which is what you should strive for. Obviously, with more panels will come more work….but also consider how wide and tall you are wanting them to be as well. 

If your goal is, like me, just to have a decorative “conversation piece” I think you can accomplish that with just three panels. If you are looking to have something closer to what they call a “room divider”, you may need four or five for the “coverage” end of things.

Choosing a Good Fabric For Your Panels

For the individual panels, you will need a good quality type of fabric with a little bit of stretch to it (but not so stretchy it runs the risk of being torn easily).

Linen and canvas by the yard are good choices for the fabric type. I think you could take something like a drop cloth and use it for this successfully. You may also want to consider a pretty pattern that strikes your fancy as well.

Making the Framework

To put together the wood framework ideally you need pieces of wood that are in the neighborhood of three-fourths of an inch thick and wide, at least, to provide enough stability. For each panel, you need to have two vertical pieces and two horizontal pieces of equal sizes.

This tutorial I ran across recently shows another maker  who had a slam-dunk design for his folding screen…Go to “Step 2” to see what a good, solid screen framework should look like!

You can attach the wood pieces via the method you’re most comfortable with, such as the use of carpenter’s glue, nails or metal brackets.  You can also leave it unfinished, or apply a wood stain. I applied a stain to the exposed sides.

I used some metal brackets which worked great at keeping the canvases from bowing out. but what really helped was the addition of some extra wood bars I found – I  nailed them down on the canvases’ frame backs.

Canvases that are like really big usually have these supplementing stretcher bars in the middle for added support so I borrowed my idea from that observation.

My cat, Sputnik, just hangin' around...Well, he was behind me, as I worked, trying to see what I was doing on the other side with the tools.

I used six canvases in all, each one measuring 22? by 28?. (it’s 56? high and 66? wide combined) It might of been a tad easier if I’d had some panoramic-sized canvases turned vertically …I’d only have needed 3 ??.

Attaching the Fabric

Attaching the fabric to the wood frames is a lot like stretching a canvas – you will need special tools; a staple gun will be a big assist here in tacking down the edges of each side securely.

Attaching the Screen Panels

I worked on the floor; you’ll need a flat surface, or use a couple of workhorses, to make sure your panels are going to be even with each other. You will be attaching door hinges from panel to panel. The hinges also need to be on the inside/back of the frames.

Using a tape measure, make a mark on one side of the frame and be sure there will be a fair amount of space between this panel and the second one next to it, so there will be adequate room for the panels to open and fold easily.

As you can see, I have about 1? of space between my panels. That’s a pretty good ballpark to strive for.

Pro Tip: You may have to hold a hinge in place with one hand and test it out by moving the panel to see how freely it will open, before committing.

Most door hinge parts  include small screws. I got the holes started with a small drill bit first.

Repeat this process with another set of door hinges further down on each panel.  One set of hinges should be near the top (about 5 or 6? give or take) and the next set can have 5-6? from the bottom; the hinges do not need to be close together.

Next, “rinse and repeat” with the next panel, and any subsequent panels. It’s going to be more of a matter of making sure you will have all the hinges in the right places and that they will easily open and close with a certain amount of slack.

(Optional) Paint Your Panels!

If you used a plain colored fabric and you want to dress it up and make it look really wowza, consider painting your panels! Since I’m giving you permission to “borrow” my idea here, now is the time to go to town with them and make them look really dope.

Go nuts – Since I love orange shades, that’s what I did with mine – I wanted them to look just like the three-panel sofa painting I used in my previous post: How To Hang a Canvas Without Nails. 

Take your time and paint something you can be proud of and will complement your home decor!

You Did It!

Congrats, you did it! A beautiful diy folding screen that you made yourself that is one of a kind. You can use it to draw attention to part of a room, a conversation piece, or heck, it would make a nice backdrop for something like your video channel if you have one.

There’s always a way to put a decorative screen like this to use…my cats as you can see here like using it as a hideaway.

DIY Lighted Canvas Art

 Today I’m going to diy lighted canvas art and bring some joy into a dreary winter day. I’ve been wanting to do something like this for awhile and now getting around to it ?? I’m also going to use one of my own paintings, and a few other materials, you can follow that route or build up your own art too!

If you love the look of lighted canvas art, you’re going to love this too – you just need some basic art supplies and some of those little midget sized “fairy lights” and you’ll be in business. I thought doing something like this might be complicated, but I found out it’s not. Just follow along with me and let’s get going!

Materials List

If you’re like me and painting is one of your favorite hobbies, you can choose one that’s ready-made, or start from scratch with a blank canvas, a size like 16 by 20 would be ideal and the painting I’m using is that size.

Some of those “fairy” lights, preferably battery operated –  – I know these are harder to find in stores before the Christmas shopping season hits so I took the liberty of picking out a suitable one.

This set I have is perfect because the lights are blunt and don’t have the pointy tip that sticks out. Look for a set like that if you can  – I think it’s labeled as “5mm”.

You’ll also need a sharp tool like an awl, that can cut precise holes, I’m using a drill with a medium sized bit . A permanent marker and possibly some tape.

Light Up Canvas Tutorial

If you’re starting from scratch with a blank canvas, now’s the time to paint it with whatever idea you’ve had in mind -whatever that may be ?? Be sure to let it dry before proceeding with the rest of this tutorial. OR if you’ve already got a canvas picture…You’re ready to go!

I chose one of my older paintings I did way back when. I was always enamored with the bucolic style of Thomas Kincade, and this one is ideal because it has a cottage in the background with illuminated windows.

Right now first step is to establish a pattern with my light string so they won’t be in a clump in one spot. Try to scatter your light string, depending on how many lights you have, so they will make a nice pattern.

I’m trying to follow the contours of the cottage lit-up windows and arrange my lights in those areas. The remaining lights will just go around the foliage in the background. When you have the right arrangement, take a pushpin and mark the spots you want the lights to go.

In addition to piercing the spots, I also drew little circles around making it easier to find them. on the back of the canvas.

Part of the problem with drilling holes is that I always try to get a “neat” look without a frayed edge. I put some tape over each hole before I started drilling. Once you have marked your spots correctly you can use your instrument of choice to make the holes.

If you use a drill, light pressure is all that is needed. Take one light and attempt to push it through the first hole to make sure it is a good fit before proceeding .

The bit size I chose is 4.36 mm. I held up one of the lights next to all the bits in their holder to take a guess at the best size bit for the job. Blow off any remaining dust…you should have strategically placed holes for each individual light now.

Now you can start inserting each of the lights through the holes. If you’ve got the right size hole, the lights will stay in place easily, you won’t need anything to secure them.

You may, however, need to secure the battery compartment somewhere – duct tape will work for that step.

You can cut a piece of cardboard to go on the back, just be sure to cut around the battery dealie so you can easily switch the lights on and off. Oh, and speaking of which, switch them on now and test them out. how do they look? Pretty right?

At first I didn’t use cardboard, but then the lights kind of had a way of popping out from time to time when I would switch it on, so I cut a piece for the back to give the lights more stability and hide them, overall. I also made a video too so you can see how all the parts come together.

Now find a good place to hang your picture – or set it up on a tabletop, your call. I had to reinsert the eye hooks and wire, I must have taken them out at an earlier time.

I find it looks the best when I switch it on in the evening – those lights really twinkle! Now you’ve got a beautiful diy lighted canvas art piece that you’ll be proud to show off. Enjoy!!

Duct Tape Wallet How-to

 Ever wanted to make a duct tape wallet? Me too...I remember when I first saw all this cool colorful patterned duct tape and wanted to make use of it as much as I could.

So once I attempted a wallet.

First cut out a thin piece of paper about 8" wide by 4" in height.

Take your tape and begin making long strips about that length (8") and attach each one to the paper piece, as you cover it, it is ok if the edges overlap a little.

Note: Just tear the tape. Don't bother cutting it...it will "gum up": the scissor blades.

To create the pockets on the inside,take a small, 3" piece of tape, adn fold it over, the edges will stick. Take another piece of tape about that length and use this one to stick to the inside. Repeat two more times to create the inner slots.

To make the insert window (for your ID, most likely) take a piece of one of those clear vinyl poly-view sheets and cut a square about 3" by 4" Use more duct tape to create a border around it, on the inside.

This is what it looks like when it is finished...

Makes a great gift, make one to give, and make one for yourself in a different color pattern!

DIY Curtain From Valance

 Watch How I DIY a Valance From a Long Curtain Drape!

(Originally published on 6/5/18)

OK, long story short....I'm not an experienced seamstress. Just someone with a goal. This goal? To repurpose a shorter valance style curtain from a long flowy drape.

Sounds doable for an ingenue right? After all it's not something that will require a pattern and extensive  labor-unfortunately it didn't go that smoothly.

I have always preferred shorter curtains...Long, flowy drapes are nice but they always seem to be too susceptible to curious kitty claws, plus gathering more dust, mites and generally, cat hair gets on them and when you're talking about white drapes with a black cat around, boy, it shows. Last week I laundered my long white drapes which kept falling down due partly to our cats' shenanigans and partly the rod at the top being persnickety.

Then I went on to replace them with a short white topper. But then...there's that little bugaboo of all that space below them. I think that is why curtain valances were invented....that midrange point on a window and below it...just makes me feel much, uh, like I have less privacy. Short curtains with valances give the win-win of a nice view at the top without having to close and tie-back long drapes, plus the privacy right where it is needed.

OK...I don't actually own any valances, just a surplus of panels. I got this idea just today. Since my panels are the same colors basically as the "shorties", I just took them and folded them in half and then after holding them up to the window to check for adjustment...folded a little bit of the top . I have those little hook thingys that I use for curtain tiebacks. I used sewing clips to secure the folded-over panel to the hooks and ta da...It's a little primitive, but it works. For now. We live in a neighborhood where you can easily get flagged for having unsightly stuff that faces the front of the house so I try to make sure I don't raise eyebrows too much:)

It's relatively mild...I live in Georgia and everyone is usually cranking out their ACs by May, but we've been having a lot of pop-up showers lately so it's stayed in the low 80s which is nice and allows for a good bit of window cracking. It makes the humidity bad but when the air is coming in it's a lot better. My cats love sitting on the windowsill to peer out at the outside world so I made sure my makeshift valance was positioned enough so they could sit there (and not easily yank it) and the air would get in freely.

My DIY Curtain Valance...A Partial Epic Fail??

So I was wanting to hem up I did here last week...this was only a makeshift "valance" Now comes the real thing. Gotta hem those babies up so they will be actual curtains, not a stopgap solution :)

Here are my long curtains that I wanted to make into short valances. I was in a quandary; because as you can see the pom-poms are lining the outer edges and bottom. I at first was okay with just one panel but realized that one side in that case, would be absent of the cute pom poms.

Which meant that I had to measure and cut in a different place...I had already measured the window from the point that the rod should go in to the windowsill.

So I cut the drapes at that point into equal lengths. That part was easy but now...

Ever heard the term "Murphy's Law" (if a thing can go wrong it will) Well what I want to know is, who is Murphy and why does he have it out for some of us? Is this Murphy some kind of gleeful sadist? Well, what went wrong over the course of this evening? Well, what didn't go wrong is more like it.

First off my cat got a hold of my bag of straight pins. Picking them up off of a rug...ugh.

I almost made some real headway, but then I got short of thread on one side and didn't know why until I discovered that the bobbin had run out of thread. I didn't know how to reload that thing until I pulled up a Youtube video. Thank goodness for that repository of how-to's for all of us when we are clueless and stumbling.

Fortunately I did manage to hem up the first panel. I wanted it to have a flanged edged too so it wouldn't look so amateurish, so I did manage to get that stitch under way. But trouble came when I started on the second panel and everything went wrong. And if all that wasn't bad enough....

My needle broke!!!

(Insert string of curse words right about now.....this would have been a good time to get out that sweary word coloring book)

This was just not. my. day. Well, not for sewing anyway....

So that's why you're only seeing this one panel as you do in this picture at the top.

Maybe I just lack the coordination for this, or maybe it is because I detest needles. Who knows? The one thing I really took to was needlepoint as a kid because I had a plastic needle that wouldn't stick me and I got to work with yarn and not skinny scrawny thread.

If you're an experienced seamstress and you're reading this right now, please get in touch :) It could be that I just don't have any guidance in this department. That may be what I need. Anything that would help me get back to finishing that other panel is about all I'd be happy with right now!

"That's Not "Sew" bad Using My Machine for the First Time in 5 Years

 Originally published: 6/24/17

Just A "Sew - Sew" Job...But Practice Makes Perfect!

My grandmother, who passed away in 2012, was a master seamstress. There was nothing she couldn't put together. I've got at least 3-4 handmade quilts that I've inherited, beauty, that. However this is not one skill I inherited. It could be that I haven't put that much thought into learning to sew, or it could be the recurring fears I have about needles. (One time growing up, I had one of those "learn needlepoint" kits for kids that came with a plastic yellow needle that was about 3" long which is why I was able to give that a chance.)

Regardless of the reason, I know it's a skill I should master; at least for the purpose of clothing alterations. It's cheaper and smarter, right? to take an article of something you're tired of and do something to make it a little different and more appealing.

Case in point, these past few weeks. Summer is here and I want to take a few long-sleeved shirts (cotton-poly blend jersey style) and make them into short-sleeve shirts. Nothing super ambitious here. I like the cute "cap" sleeve that's a little bit shorter than the standard T-shirt; but I digress a little. Time to crank out my machine which has been in the closet the past 5 years.

This sewing machine I have is only about 10 years old and in gently used condition. It is a Brother, yep, same company that made my 4-in-one-printer. When I say "gently used" I mean the last thing I worked on was a set of curtains, and I think I hemmed up the legs of some too-long pants.

This is a Brother LS-2125i which is labeled as a "beginner friendly" machine too by the way. Yeah, I haven't studied sewing machines in depth but I have seen some more modern that are actually computerized and all. I believe I neglected to tell you that my Brother was a gift I received for Christmas 2007; so this model has been around awhile.

So here I am, re-learning again, naturally. From last set-up, the bobbin has been wound and fitted into the bottom loading area (sorry, as an amateur, I know that place has a name) I don't have to fool with that part. But apparently when it went into the closet, the threading area and spool must have gotten jostled around, as I had to re-fit it in that slot again correctly; which took a few tries, and I'm embarrassed to say, I had to consult YouTube for a little direction. When I didn't know exactly where the thread should loop around, I had a few stallings.

Did I mention I hate needle threading? Yep, somewhere towards the beginning, so I won't drag that out long. Had to do a tittle self-talk there. But when I got that part squared away, happy day. My work went on like silk on glass. Except that the stitches resulting do not match what an experienced seamstress would call "a great job" But that's OK....the sleeves are hemmed as they should and if you're standing a few feet away you wouldn't notice.

Now about the machine itself? This is not a review post and because of the "gently used" thing going, I can't give a full-out appraisal right now. Heck, there's probably some anatomy I'm not sure I can identify yet. One thing I do notice that I have to be careful of is to tempo the foot pedal as it tends to get away from me quickly unless I go very lightly with my foot. But do I want to keep on using this machine as needed to do things like I stated in the second paragraph? You betcha.

So if you gained one thing of importance from reading this post, it is that I will certainly tell you upfront what I have yet to master. This technique is like anything else out there; practice makes perfect!

How to Make a Wine Bottle Lamp-WIth Christmas Lights Inside!

 Learn how to make a wine bottle accent lamp with mini Christmas lights to amaze your guests at your next party ...or razzle-dazzle your domicile with a little ambiance!

I have a great backstory for this one. I got to attend the Cotton Pickin' Fair in Gay, Georgia in 2006 (look it up - it's a fun bi-annual craft fair) In one of the booths a vendor was selling handmade wine bottle lamps filled with midget lights. All of them one of a kind with different art on them. That one was hard to leave empty-handed; I left with one that had pretty grape clusters.

Now I enjoyed using mine, but you know I was thinking, "I gotta make one of those, too" I had so much fun making this wine bottle with midget lights inside...yep, just an ordinary string of clear midget lights to make this show-stopper. Yep, the same kind I use for my funky light string covers.

Materials

First a string of clear midget Christmas lights - between 20-35 lights in all; fewer work best. Also it needs to be the kind with one plug and not the multi-string  connector thingy at the other end, as we are going to be feeding the lights through a small hole in the bottle.

You could also use colored midget lights too, instead of clear - which I didn't think of at the time - they would really look snazzy in a transparent clear bottle!

Next the wine bottle itself, but be judicious in choosing one - if you have a collection, pick your favorite! Some wine bottles come in dark colors like green, red or brown and that in themselves can look great all on their own. Also, skinnier bottles may be easier to thread lights through. And a clear bottle, like mine, could also be painted on too, which is what I did.

Other tools include: a special glass drill bit, tape.

Optional: Paints (acrylic enamel for use on glass works best), decor pieces like raffia ties, ribbon, flatbed faux gemstones, etc.

Preparing Your Wine Bottle

First carefully remove the label from the bottle  If you're a wine aficionado, you may prefer to leave the label on, especially if the type is rare or unique, and it adds to the bottle's appeal. In that case you may want to apply a coat of Mod Podge to preserve it.

Prefer to remove labels? With stubborn labels I always use something like Goo Gone which works like gangbusters.

Drilling the Hole for the Light Cord

To make a bottle lamp with Christmas lights the right way, there's some technical skill involved first. You'll have to make that little bitty hole so the light string can pass through easily.

You need a diamond drill bit for this task, very important. They don't look like the kind of bits I use for other crafty tasks. If you are in any way unsure of yourself for this step, please seek assistance from a friend or relative with the know-how. It's not worth swallowing your pride if the bottle breaks cause then you'll be SOL :(

I was kind of scared to attempt it and so I got my ex at the time to do it. This is pretty much the same procedure taken that was necessary for my other lamp from a mason jar :) I was very fortunate, because this is NOT a step I felt confident about.

In addition to the special drill bit you would also need some tape to go over the spot, a misting bottle (all that friction can cause heat and this would be more likely to cause the potential to break) and safety goggles.

The hole just needs to be about the size of a dime to be able to thread midget lights easily.

The area around the cutout hole may be sharp. You'll want to use a little sandpaper or an emery board to go around it so you don't accidentally cut yourself when threading the light string through. You also may want to consider the use of a grommet in this spot to further protect the light string cord.

Inserting the Light String

Now take your string of Christmas lights and begin to thread it through the hole. Proceed carefully; only insert one light at a time.

You may have to tip the bottle sideways and upside down from time to time so the lights will be evenly dispersed in the wine bottle. I had this issue at first where the lights would  clump at the bottom. If you've got a skinnier wine bottle, you may not have this problem so much :)

One thing that works is taking a coat hanger and cutting out the straight part up to the corner and using the corner piece to pull out the light string through the top. I found another cool trick when I got my hands on some floral decor filler - it looks so pretty and really highlights the lights too when I plug it in, in addition to filling in space around the light string.

Can You Make a Wine Bottle Lamp Without Drilling?

This question does get asked from time to time - and, yes. yes you can it just takes a little bit different strategy. I'm glad to know I'm not the only one who's squeamish about the idea of cutting through glass! The first option is to outsource it - like I did. If you know and trust someone who has the skill.

Second approach is to look for a wine bottle light adapter that has the lights attached. You can find these online and now they are making them with the battery compartment inside the bottle stopper so they will be discreet and not show. They also come in multiples so you can light up a whole passel of wine bottles just for kicks! You can make a special occasion like a wedding, outdoor garden party, or backyard bbq really spectacular.

Below is my own adapter - This was a nice little surprise I found in my 2018 Christmas stocking (yep we still do that :) It takes 3 AAA batteries which are concealed in the tube that goes into the bottle, and turns on and off by pushing the round bulgy top piece.

Jazz Up Your Christmas Light Wine Bottle Lamp

I replaced the cork when I had the crystal filler/lights all in the right place I wanted them. The finishing touch...I wrapped a few strands of raffia near the top in a bow...seems no repurposed bottle is complete without a sprig of raffia on it.

If your wine bottle is clear you might want to consider doing something similar just for the heck of it... I painted a rose and a few other designs on the sides. Another great way to jazz up your lamp; just be sure to use enamel glass paint.

When the paint dries you should be able to plug it into any standard wall outlet and ...walla! Beautiful! Now you know how to make a bottle lamp with Christmas lights to wow your friends or family.

So there you have it...I hope you enjoyed this tutorial! Let me know how it goes for you.

DIY Mason Jar Lamp (I Filled Mine with Toys)

Originally published 9/26/16  Do you want to learn how to make a mason jar lamp that looks as good as the fancy "designer" jars at the store, but at a fraction of the cost, with easy to locate materials?

Great, because I did too! I learned how to make this beauty you see here, back in 2007, one fine day I was bored and looking for something to do that was artistically challenging.

I saw an actual ball mason jar lamp filled with seashells at a local antique shop and of course I was thinking "I could make that!"

Now here she is, 10 years old and this baby still works like gangbusters with semi-continuous use! 

Not only will you have a real working lamp made out of inexpensive materials but you can also fill the mason jar up with cute treasures! I chose a bunch of my childhood miniature trinkets, but the sky is truly the limit!

Materials List

To create this illuminated beauty, you need a quart-size Mason/Ball jar with respective lid - it's a 64 oz to be exact. Try to find one that big or your lamp may be closer to "nightlight" sized!

A "make-your-own lamp" kit - this one I found to the left is pretty close to the one I bought from Lowe's at the time. Some kits include a brass harp and finial to support the lampshade or you can purchase those separately.

You can paint your jar; I recommend acrylic enamel paints for this part...OR objects to go into the jar if you want to make this lamp super fun! Object suggestions include: Seashells, wine corks, miniature building playset bricks, candy, or heck, you can steal my miniature toy idea :)

Other tools you'll need include:

Small needle-nose pliers

A glass drill bit (one half or one fourth inch size)

Painter's tape

Water spray bottle

Marking tool like a Sharpie pen

Small or medium sized lampshade - somewhere around 12" in height will work fine.

Your "make your own lamp kit" contents may vary in appearance overall, but they should include:

An 8 foot electric cord

Light socket base/cap

Threaded "nipple"

Check ring

Locknut

This pretty much the whole "kit and kaboodle" right here. Don't forget there will be an instruction sheet included too - I did the best I could here with this post to "reverse engineer" but you may have to refer to something on paper which I understand.You may not need all three of the locknuts (the white stopper looking parts)  them for this project - I think they were intended for use with bottles or to re-wire an old lamp.

Decorating Your Mason Jar

First decide if you want to paint your jar or fill it with cute objects. If you're opting for the former now is the time to do that part! You can tint your mason jar in a translucent color or give it a nice opaque look with a solid color, like this example to the left.

You can use a brush or sponge or distribute it by squirting a little and rolling the jar around in different directions.

It'll probably need a few days to dry before proceeding with the rest of the lamp.

Drilling Your Mason Jar

OK - step one! If you are like me and a stickler for neatness, I recommend drilling a small hole through the jar so the electric cord can pass through easily. and there's less of it exposed.

Get prepared - you'll need your painters' tape, special diamond drill bit, and water bottle for this. Tear off a piece of tape and "mark" a spot close to the bottom of the jar on both the outside AND  inside for extra protection.

Using your pen, draw a small hole about the size of a dime. (about three-fourth's of an inch from the bottom.) Are you ready? I'll admit - this part can seem scary. Just remember:

Take your time, go SLO-O-WLY...

Don't force the bit.

Periodically mist the spot with water as this step will cause a lot of heat due to the friction.

Follow some Youtube tutorials if you have to!

Thankful that my ex at the time performed this task as I was a little apprehensive about doing it myself. If you feel uncomfortable about it, though, don't worry; as the lamp kit socket base has a small opening that the cord can thread out of.

Getting the Lid Ready

Take the jar lid and make a mark with a permanent pen or similar, right in the middle. Cut or drill a small opening (about the size of a nickel, maybe close to an inch). Use whatever instrument feels comfortable for you here and is sharp enough to do the job correctly; you may also want to put down a wood block or something to put under the lid as you cut.

This strategy helps me out a lot since I don't have a "workhorse" or anything! Also, don't worry if your hole doesn't look perfectly round either - just make sure the opening is big enough for the lamp kit apparatus to pass through it. Also, be sure and sand around the opening since the edges may be sharp, too (I use an emery board for this).

Assembling the Lamp Wiring

The opening for the lid above will be for the check ring, locknut and  threaded "nipple" from the kit to go through.

This step here must be done before the assembly of the lamp socket. Your included electric cord has a plug on one end and an "unattached" end with two slightly exposed wires.

Thread this wire side through the jar lid opening and then through the "nipple".

Thread the check ring over these parts next. Thread the metal harp over the check ring. The metal harp is the device that will support your lampshade. Next push the socket cap into place over the lid, nipple and check ring.

Note: If you prefer to use a lampshade with a metal clamp fitting you will not need the brass harp piece, so you can skip that part.

The electric cord separates and each end has a golden look to it. There are two inner screws inside the socket base. One is gold and the other is silver. Wrap the non-ribbed wire part around the gold screw and the ribbed wire around the silver screw.

Don't worry if this sounds confusing, when you're looking at the parts up close it'll become clear. The needle nose pliers will come in handy for this to secure the wires down snugly.

Attach the socket cap part (this is where the light bulb will go) into the base firmly. Here is a close-up of both socket parts. You can see which part has the "switch" that will make the light turn on and off.

Filling Up the Jar

Now comes the most fun part - if you want to put some cute objects into the jar now is your chance! Try to be strategic about it if you can. I know I took a few of my toys out and moved them around before I was happy overall with the look.

Also there were some in particular I wanted to show off more. I grew up in the 80s and the most iconic characters included Strawberry Shortcake, Alf, E.T., Care Bears....you can tell I'm kind of going off on a nostalgia tangent here. Sorry about that :)

When you've got the objects arranged the way you like them then go ahead and screw the jar lid back on.

Final Assembly Steps

Still with me here? Great! Don't worry, you've got the hard parts behind you, we are just about to cross the finish line. There are a few more parts to put into place, but they will only take a minute to do.

Attach the lampshade you have chosen. The shade can be as flamboyant or plain as you want, but the important thing is to choose one that's kind of small-ish and complements the lamp in a pleasing way.

If you want you can decorate your lampshade too; I did so with the use of some crafting stencils.

Secure your lampshade (if you don't have the kind with the metal clamp) using a finial, which can also be decorative, and goes into a threaded area on top of the metal lamp harp. And I think you know where this is going....

Grab a bulb (a standard 50-60 watt is what I use)and now switch 'er on to make sure she is working!

Bravo! ... Give yourself a pat on the back as you have learned how to make a beautiful mason jar lamp that is unique, one of a kind and will grace your end table, desk, or nightstand.

Here is my lamp as it looks now:Have fun! I know that was a LOT of steps...It was worth it, though, right? I think my cat will agree....this lamp is one of a kind!

If you get stuck at any point don't hesitate to drop me a message in the comments.

Now...here's the part where I did some changes to it later on. I did find myself taking a good look at it enough to find myself dissatisfied. Namely, with the metal harp - that thing has been an Achilles' heel as long as I can remember.

But only last night did it finally dawn on me that I could remove that thing once and for all...yes, it might mean having to start fresh with new wiring and all, but it would be worth the trouble.

As I turned out I realized I didn't know that much about lampshades. The fact is, lampshades are not just superficially different - they actually have what is called different "fitters" -If you have a lampshade with a metal triad at the top with an opening in the middle, you've got a "spider" fitter.

The "clamp" as I described it, is just simply known as a "clip on" fitter...it just rests atop of your lightbulb holding on to it snugly.

I decided to give my lamp a well, partial makeover. I got a small clip-on fitter lampshade at Lowes for under $10 and a new lamp assembly kit.

Yes that meant I had to open that sucker up I made way back when and then empty all those little toys out and start from scratch...well, not exactly total scratch, but what I did was re-wire with a new socket (boy that whole thing got hairy) If you've got time for a story, here's how the whole thing played out.

The kit looks pretty much like the one I bought a decade ago, so I'm like "Here goes" when opening it up and spreading out the objects and the paper insert. All is going well until I come to this one line in the steps: "Remove a fourth of an inch of the casing below the electrical wire ends using a wire stripper" Cue the record scratch noise right about now.  What the heck is a wire stripper?

Back to the ol' toolbox to see if by some miracle I have one of those (after Googl-ing it to see what it actually looked like!) OK, these here are about the best I can do...

As it turns out they were not; neither of them were the thing I needed. Bending that wire around the screws inside the socket cap looked like it was going to be an ordeal unless I figured out something. I have a healthy respect for electricity meaning I want to leave it up to the professionals.

As it turned out the only thing that came close was my manicure scissors and I had to be really really careful trimming that part of the casing off so the wires would wrap around correctly (Darn it, I didn't run into this with my first kit!)

Maybe I just got lucky, but I was able to finish the job and ta da, the light lit up when I tested it out, then rejoiced and put all those little toys back in there, and proceeded with the lampshade.

But labor or snafus aside, let me tell you, without that metal harp in the way it just worked 100% better. It works and it looks great! Sure, it don't have that flamboyant lampshade and teardrop finial but it is still much more secure.

I realize that sometimes simple can be a good thing. I've always felt like if it doesn't take as long as I thought to do an art project something must be wrong, but I am finding out that's not always true.